{"id":50,"date":"2001-10-22T16:53:26","date_gmt":"2001-10-22T23:53:26","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.mortie.net\/journal\/?p=50"},"modified":"2008-01-04T17:09:26","modified_gmt":"2008-01-05T00:09:26","slug":"grandmakaze","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.mortie.net\/journal\/index.php\/2001\/10\/22\/grandmakaze\/","title":{"rendered":"&#8220;Grandmakaze!&#8221;"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><strong>Monday, 22 October: &#8220;Drive               on the left!&#8221;<\/strong><\/p>\n<blockquote><p><strong>&#8220;Drive on the left, drive on the left, drive on the leeeeefffffftttt!&#8221;<\/strong><br \/>\nfrom Ivan and Mortie&#8217;s hit &#8220;Drive on the Left&#8221;, now playing in the Fiat<\/p><\/blockquote>\n<p>Ivan and I fly to Dublin today &#8211; our friend Jillian is to meet us there. Ivan decides to rent a car, a tiny Fiat Punto (punter? some Spanish swear word?). He&#8217;s never driven here before, but you have to learn sometime, and a large label affixed to the windshield&#8217;s interior reminds us to &#8216;DRIVE TO THE LEFT&#8217; with an arrow pointing to the &#8230; left. It&#8217;s in German and French, too. They drive on the same side of the road as we do, apparently.<\/p>\n<p>Apart from one error on the way out of the rental car lot (the people at the booth must have a scorecard for how many rental car drivers exit the lot the opposite way), Ivan does a capable job getting us to the city center. We make a game of it, singing a made-up song called &#8220;Drive on the Left&#8221;. The only lyrics to the song are above &#8212; it&#8217;s a work in progress.<\/p>\n<p>Ivan learns how to drive in Ireland by spending two hours looking for parking in the city center, while I check into the hostel, and wait for him and Jillian to arrive. We&#8217;re at the Ashfield House (actually, Ashfield Concrete Building is more accurate), complete with pool table, continental breakfast (here that means assortment of fried things) and sparse but comfortable rooms.<\/p>\n<p>Jillian checks in across the hall from us. She&#8217;s sharing a room with a couple &#8212; two Americans working here for the last month &#8212; and the girl apparently has a Valley Girl accent. I meet Jillian&#8217;s friend Ken, from Dublin, who drops her off before he&#8217;s on his way.<\/p>\n<p>Jillian moved to Portland from Seattle in September, and then to Ireland to work at the Glencree Reconciliation Centre, a facility that helps students and groups from Ireland understand the decades-long conflict in Northern Ireland, and to work towards a solution. As a volunteer there, she gets to work with the students and will be there through mid-December.<\/p>\n<p>After dinner, Ivan crashes in the room, fast asleep. Jillian and I go to the greatest dance club in the whole of Dublin: Ri Ra (Gaelic for &#8216;uproar&#8217;). We close out the place at 3am, and get late night chicken kebabs under bright fluorescent lighting. Life is good.<\/p>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"http:\/\/www.mortie.net\/journal\/wp-content\/uploads\/2008\/01\/dscn1070.jpg\" alt=\"Drive on the left.\" \/><\/p>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"http:\/\/www.mortie.net\/journal\/wp-content\/uploads\/2008\/01\/dscn1072.jpg\" alt=\"Jillian at the Ashfield House.\" \/><\/p>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"http:\/\/www.mortie.net\/journal\/wp-content\/uploads\/2008\/01\/dscn1078.jpg\" alt=\"Jillian practices proper hygiene.\" \/><\/p>\n<p><strong>Tuesday, 23 October: &#8220;Oh, I love that dirty water&#8221;<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>Ivan and I decide to separate for a couple of days. He wants to drive to the West Coast and see castles on islands and cliffs. I want to go to Glencree for the night and back to Dublin. Ivan agrees to give Jillian and I a lift to Glencree, as he&#8217;d like to see what Jillian&#8217;s place is like.<\/p>\n<p>People cross the street in front of us as we drive there, with little regard to the danger. Cars have right of way here. There&#8217;s a few close calls, especially from elderly women who almost seem to *want* to run in front of Ivan&#8217;s car. We affectionately call them &#8220;Grandmakaze&#8221;.<\/p>\n<p>The country roads are *narrow* out here &#8212; about the width of two Yugos when you drive rurally, which we do. A very large truck coming around the corner scares the bejeezus out of us. I sing &#8220;Drive to the Left&#8221; in my head to return my blood pressure to normal.<\/p>\n<p>We arrive around 3pm (that&#8217;s 6 am 3 days prior, Seattle time), and it turns out that Ivan&#8217;s destination on his cross-island journey is 4 hours away, so he stays the night at Glencree instead. He&#8217;s put in the Turkey Room, which contains a couple of posters from Turkey, and I&#8217;m put in the Finland Room, which looks like an Ikea showroom.<\/p>\n<p>The water is brown here, on account of all the peat in the area. Not potable.<\/p>\n<p>We meet Jillian&#8217;s fellow volunteers &#8212; they&#8217;re from all over the globe and seem to be a tight knit family. Counting Ivan and myself, we bring the total pool of Americans to five, throwing off their ecosystem a bit.<\/p>\n<p>Dinner looks like rice and chicken kiev, but the chicken bit is actually &#8216;quorn&#8217; &#8212; I think they told me it&#8217;s a mushroom and corn based meat substitute. It tastes good &#8212; I don&#8217;t know if they sell this at home, but can anything replace a Vienna beef hot dog with cream cheese?<\/p>\n<p>Jillian&#8217;s friend Patty, an older Irishman, brings out a guitar and sings standards. He&#8217;s very good. Ivan and I sing &#8216;Sweet Caroline&#8217; with him, and then Patty plays along as I sing a folksy version of David Allan Coe&#8217;s &#8220;You Never Even Called Me By My Name&#8221;, where one verse in the song contains the perfect country song. That part is written by Steve Goodman (who wrote a couple of pep rally songs for the Chicago Cubs) and goes like this: Well, I was drunk the day my mom got out of prison\/and I went to pick her up in the rain\/But before I could get to the station in my (broken down) pick up truck\/She got runned over by a dammed old train.<\/p>\n<p>Since Ivan&#8217;s here *and* has a car, we go to a local pub in Enniskerry. Ivan&#8217;s excited &#8212; there&#8217;s going to be a live band here tonight, and he hasn&#8217;t heard traditional Irish music. Little did he know we&#8217;d leave the club still waiting to hear it , as they played mostly American covers. That&#8217;s fine, I guess, but Suzanne Vega&#8217;s &#8220;My Name is Luka&#8221;? Bea (bay-a), a Spanish volunteer, cringed at the music, and her bottle of red wine with the screwtop cap. Yanik, the French volunteer, joined in with a fine wince.<\/p>\n<p>They played &#8216;Sweet Home Alabama&#8217;. Making lemonade from lemons, Jillian and I performed a swing dance hoedown to Skynyrd&#8217;s classic, and it was a much more tasteful performance than my friend Spenser and I swing dancing in a drunken state to &#8220;Amazing Grace&#8221; at Molly Maguire&#8217;s a few weeks prior.<\/p>\n<p>Ivan&#8217;s our designated driver, and drinks no absinthe. We sing &#8216;My Way&#8217; on the way back to Glencree, much to the chagrin of our foreign guests. Maybe Sinatra *isn&#8217;t* the universal language.<\/p>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"http:\/\/www.mortie.net\/journal\/wp-content\/uploads\/2008\/01\/dscn1080.jpg\" alt=\"The Weary Ass Coffee Shop.\" \/><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"http:\/\/www.mortie.net\/journal\/wp-content\/uploads\/2008\/01\/dscn1094.jpg\" alt=\"Residents of Glencree stay at\u2026 Glencree.\" \/><\/p>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"http:\/\/www.mortie.net\/journal\/wp-content\/uploads\/2008\/01\/dscn1091.jpg\" alt=\"A view of Glencree.\" \/><\/p>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"http:\/\/www.mortie.net\/journal\/wp-content\/uploads\/2008\/01\/dscn1088.jpg\" alt=\"Jillian and Ivan on a walk.\" \/><\/p>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"http:\/\/www.mortie.net\/journal\/wp-content\/uploads\/2008\/01\/dscn1089.jpg\" alt=\"The tallest latrine ever.\" \/><br \/>\n<img decoding=\"async\" src=\"http:\/\/www.mortie.net\/journal\/wp-content\/uploads\/2008\/01\/dscn1090.jpg\" alt=\"Yaneek!\" \/><\/p>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"http:\/\/www.mortie.net\/journal\/wp-content\/uploads\/2008\/01\/dscn1099.jpg\" alt=\"The evening\u2019s result \u2014 no caption necessary.\" \/><\/p>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"http:\/\/www.mortie.net\/journal\/wp-content\/uploads\/2008\/01\/dscn1087.jpg\" alt=\"Ivan fends off a Jungle Girl attack on the resident kitty.\" \/><\/p>\n<p class=\"facebook\"><a href=\"http:\/\/www.facebook.com\/share.php?u=https:\/\/www.mortie.net\/journal\/index.php\/2001\/10\/22\/grandmakaze\/\" target=\"_blank\" title=\"Share on Facebook\">Share on Facebook<\/a><\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Monday, 22 October: &#8220;Drive on the left!&#8221; &#8220;Drive on the left, drive on the left, drive on the leeeeefffffftttt!&#8221; from Ivan and Mortie&#8217;s hit &#8220;Drive on the Left&#8221;, now playing in the Fiat Ivan and I fly to Dublin today &#8211; our friend Jillian is to meet us there. Ivan decides to rent a car, &hellip; <\/p>\n<p class=\"link-more\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.mortie.net\/journal\/index.php\/2001\/10\/22\/grandmakaze\/\" class=\"more-link\">Continue reading<span class=\"screen-reader-text\"> &#8220;&#8220;Grandmakaze!&#8221;&#8221;<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n<p class=\"facebook\"><a href=\"http:\/\/www.facebook.com\/share.php?u=https:\/\/www.mortie.net\/journal\/index.php\/2001\/10\/22\/grandmakaze\/\" target=\"_blank\" title=\"Share on Facebook\">Share on Facebook<\/a><\/p>","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[3],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-50","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-europe"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.mortie.net\/journal\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/50","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.mortie.net\/journal\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.mortie.net\/journal\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.mortie.net\/journal\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.mortie.net\/journal\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=50"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/www.mortie.net\/journal\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/50\/revisions"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.mortie.net\/journal\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=50"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.mortie.net\/journal\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=50"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.mortie.net\/journal\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=50"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}